Selasa, 18 Desember 2012

Fat duck

I don't think poultry is properly represented on this blog of mine even though we eat our fair share of it.






We have chicken very often, once, sometimes twice a week, and when I want to be more adventurous and a little bit naughty, I cook duck, goose or quail, particularly for special occasions.






Duck is not a simple little bird, it's not like chicken. It is gamey and delicious and pretty fatty, with its beautiful thick layer of skin that renders and becomes the stuff culinary dreams are made of. Roast potatoes and fried eggs are completely transformed when cooked in duck fat. Try it.






During the holidays, I love to prepare duck confit which is a French dish of duck legs that are first salted and refrigerated for up to thirty-six hours and then slow-cooked, poached really, in their own fat. The result is superb but I don't always have time for such complicated dishes.






The simplest and quickest way for me to enjoy duck is by pan-frying the breast. I usually pair it with roasted vegetables or baked potatoes (in duck fat of course) but recently I discovered a wonderful accompaniment for duck breast. A warm salad of Beluga lentils with cranberries and spinach. Quite festive too.






The pairing is marvelous. The duck breast is crispy crackly on the outside and tender and moist on the inside but it needs something to cut through all that richness and that's where the salad comes in. The earthiness of the lentils and the tangy acidity of the cranberries complement perfectly the sweetness and fattiness of the duck, while the spinach freshens up the whole dish.






It is a complete and utter delight, ideal for a festive dinner or even for an alternative Christmas lunch. Unconventional is the way to go sometimes.











Pan-Fried Duck Breast with a Warm Salad of Beluga Lentils, Spinach and Cranberries
Adapted from Food & Travel

Beluga lentils are small black lentils. They're called beluga because when raw and wet, they glisten and strongly resemble caviar. They are very similar in texture to the French green Puy lentils as they keep their shape when cooked. If you can't find them, substitute with Puy lentils.

Pair the dish with a red Côtes du Rhône.






Yield: 4 main-course servings

Ingredients

for the salad
200 g fresh cranberries
1 Tbsp caster sugar
100 g baby spinach leaves
150 g Beluga lentils
2 Tbsp olive oil
3 shallots, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, mashed
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

for the duck
4 duck breast fillets with skin (about 200g each)
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Sprouts and garden cress for garnishing

Special equipment: colander, large skillet or sauté pan


Preparation

for the salad
Rinse the cranberries under cold running water and place them in a small bowl. Sprinkle them with the sugar and mix well with a spoon.
Rinse the spinach under cold running water and drain well.

Rinse the lentils well under cold running water.
In a medium-sized saucepan, add the olive oil and heat over medium heat. When it starts to shimmer, add the shallots and garlic and sauté for about 5 minutes, stirring regularly, until they soften but don't brown. Add the lentils to the pan and sauté them lightly for 1 minute stirring continuously. Then add enough warm water to just cover them. Don't add a lot of water otherwise the salad will be watery. Bring the lentils to the boil and then turn heat down to low and simmer for 13-15 minutes, with the lid half-on, until almost cooked.
Note: if you find that there's too much water, remove the extra liquid with a spoon from the pan.


Add the cranberries to the lentils and cook, stirring often, over medium heat for 5-10 minutes, until the cranberries start to burst. Be careful though because you don't want the berries to turn mushy.
Then add the spinach leaves, season with salt and freshly ground black pepper and mix well with a spoon. The spinach will wilt from the heat of the lentils and cranberries.
Keep the salad warm and prepare the duck.


for the duck
Take the duck breasts out of the refrigerator at least half an hour before you cook them so they come to room temperature. Rinse them under cold running water and pat them dry with paper towels.
Using a sharp knife, score the skin all over in a criss-cross pattern, being careful not to cut through the meat but just the skin. The scoring will help to render the fat and make the skin crispy. If there is any skin hanging over the edge of the breast, remove it with your knife.
Season the breast on both sides with salt and freshly ground black pepper and make sure to rub the seasoning well onto the skin.


Heat a large, heavy-bottomed skillet (I use a cast-iron skillet) or sauté pan over medium heat. There's no need to add any oil because the duck will render a lot of fat. Add the duck breasts, skin-side down and immediately turn heat down to medium-low. Cook for about 7 minutes, until the fat is rendered and the skin is crispy and brown. Empty the pan from the rendered fat and pour it into a bowl. Once it cools, you can keep it in the fridge, covered tightly and use it to cook potatoes or eggs.
Turn the duck breasts over and cook for 4-7 minutes, depending on how you prefer to eat your duck. If you like it medium-rare then cook it for 4 minutes; if you like it well-done cook for 7 minutes.
If your duck breasts are smaller or bigger than the ones indicated here then you'll need to adjust the cooking times. Also, the layer of fat of your duck breasts might be thinner or fatter so adjust the time of rendering accordingly, otherwise your duck will be too fatty.

Transfer the duck breasts to a clean cutting board and cover lightly with a piece of aluminum foil so that they don't get cold. Let the duck breasts rest for 7-9 minutes. Resting the meat is very important because it relaxes and the juices spread equally throughout it. If you cut the meat right after you've taken it off the heat, all the juices will run out instead of staying in and keeping the meat moist.

With a sharp knife, cut the breasts at an angle into thick-ish slices and place on individual plates.
Add the lentil salad next to each duck breast and garnish with the sprouts, the garden cress and some fresh small baby spinach leaves and serve immediately. Enjoy!





Sabtu, 08 Desember 2012

Sometimes, savory is better than sweet

Consider yourselves warned. This is a savory baked custard that's sinful, delicious and utterly bad for your health.






Whoever says custards should only be sweet, they are sorely mistaken. Because, sometimes, savory is better than sweet.






Yes, chocolate is my vice, but so is cheese. I have many a time waxed poetic about the beauty of a three cheese soufflé, the glory of feta whipped to a pillowy spread, the marvel that is the traditional Greek cheese saganaki.






My love for cheese runs deep and for parmesan even deeper. I've added it to numerous pasta dishes, to tart bases and on top of savory French toasts but I have never gone as far as adding it to custard. Not until about a year ago when I first tried this recipe.






Salty goodness to the brim, balanced by the creaminess of the milk and eggs and the whisper of fiery cayenne and white pepper. A velvety smooth custard filled with the umami flavor of parmesan cheese, paired with crunchy anchovy toasts for proper dipping action. A savory surprise that's truly inspiring.











Parmesan Custards with Anchovy Toasts
Adapted from Rowley Leigh

These custards make an ideal first course or appetizer for a special or festive dinner.
They pair perfectly with a crisp Chardonnay such as a Chablis.






Yield: 4 custards

Ingredients

for the parmesan custards
150 ml fresh, whole milk
150 ml cream, full fat (35%)
50 g parmesan cheese, finely grated
2 egg yolks from medium-sized eggs
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Pinch of white pepper
Pinch of salt

for the anchovy toasts
6 anchovy fillets in oil (from a can)
30 g unsalted butter, softened
4 very thin slices of sourdough bread or rustic bread (or 8 baguette slices)

Special equipment: hand whisk, 4 small ramekins (100 ml capacity), small baking dish that fits all four ramekins together, sandwich/panini maker


Preparation

for the parmesan custards
In a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan, add the milk, the cream and the finely grated parmesan and set over a low heat. Stir continuously with a rubber spatula until the parmesan has melted and the mixture is steaming but is not boiling. It will take 5-7 minutes.
Remove the pan from the heat and empty the mixture into a medium-sized bowl. Allow the mixture to cool.

Preheat your oven to 150 degrees Celsius / 300 Fahrenheit.

Add the eggs, cayenne and white pepper and a pinch of salt to the cooled mixture and whisk well to incorporate.
Divide the custard mixture equally among the four ramekins and place them inside a deep baking dish. Fill the baking dish with enough boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins, place it carefully on the middle rack of the oven and cover it loosely with a piece of baking paper.


Bake the custards for 25-30 minutes or until just set. Check them 5 minutes earlier to make sure you're on the right track, and since not all ovens are the same, to make sure that the custards have not overcooked. Check doneness by gently touching with your finger the center of the custard. It needs to be wobbly but set, not liquid. It mustn't be hard in the middle.
Do not overcook the custards because that will ruin their creamy texture.

for the anchovy toasts
In the meantime, prepare the anchovy toasts.
Drain the anchovies well from the oil and add them to a small bowl along with the softened butter. Mash them with a fork to a smooth paste. Spread it over 2 of the slices of bread, cover with the 2 remaining slices and toast them in a sandwich/panini maker until golden brown and crunchy.


Remove the baking pan from the oven and remove the ramekins from the pan. Allow them to cool slightly before serving them, sprinkled with a little white pepper.
Serve the parmesan custards with the anchovy toasts, cut into little fingers.





Selasa, 04 Desember 2012

The first snow

Yesterday fell the first snow of the season. I woke up in the morning to see the beautiful snowflakes gently falling outside my bedroom window while my whole being was screaming, "don't go to work, stay in bed, call in sick". I couldn't. I had to go.






I wore my heaviest and warmest coat, my big fat woolen gloves, a long scarf that I wrapped around my neck and head to keep the cold out, my favorite sheepskin boots to keep my toes warm and I braved the cold weather. My hands and face were freezing in no time as the snow that suddenly turned to rain, then to hail, and finally to snow again was grazing my cheeks. I was aching to go back home and crawl into bed but I pressed on.






The whole day at work I was dreaming of being in the arms of my S, drinking a cup of hot cocoa. That's all I wanted to do, and that's exactly what I did when I got home. S and I, after a rather difficult day out in the world, we sat on our comfy couch, put our favorite music on and drank some of this rich hot cocoa.

I hope you'll enjoy it as well.






Rumor has it, it will snow heavily in the next couple of weeks in The Hague. I can't wait! Perhaps we'll have a white Christmas.

See you again soon.











Hot Cocoa

Milk, cocoa, sugar. It couldn't be much simpler than that. A good hot cocoa means good cocoa powder. Don't use anything other than Dutch-processed which has an intense flavor and dark color.

And if you prefer hot chocolate rather than hot cocoa, check this out.






Yield: 2 large cups

Ingredients
500 ml fresh, whole milk
5 heaped tsp Dutch-processed cocoa powder (I use Van Houten but also Droste)
4 tsp caster sugar (or more to taste)


Preparation
In a milk pan or small saucepan, add the milk, the cocoa powder and the sugar and place over medium heat. Heat, stirring until the cocoa dissolves. Don't allow the milk to boil but take it off the heat when it starts to steam.

Note: The 4 tsp of sugar that I use, make for a fairly sweet cocoa. Add more or less depending how you prefer your cocoa to taste. Keep in mind though that Dutch-processed cocoa powder is quite bitter.

Drink the cocoa while it's still hot, served with your favorite cookies. We chose the traditional Dutch pepernoten and mini stroopwafels.





Selasa, 27 November 2012

Three Years







Three years of blogging, of sharing recipes, stories, snippets of my life with all of you.

Thank you for being here and for making this worthwhile.






There's no sweeter way to celebrate these three years than with cookies.

Two types of shortbread cookies; vanilla and chocolate.






Two different kinds of shortbread cookies, not only in terms of flavor but texture as well.

The vanilla one is buttery, crumbly and soft.

The chocolate one has a pronounced cocoa flavor, it's a little softer and slightly less sweet than the vanilla shortbread cookie, with a somewhat sandy texture.






No matter which one you choose, they're both incredibly delicious.

Especially when they're cut into letter shapes.











Vanilla Shortbread Cookies

This is the ultimate vanilla shortbread cookie and the addition of cornflour gives it a lighter and more tender texture. It is perfect eaten plain or used to make a cookie sandwich, filled with everything from dulce de leche to chocolate ganache and jam.






Yield: about 25 cookies

Ingredients
150 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
55 g icing sugar, sieved
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
220 g all purpose flour, sieved plus extra for dipping your cookie cutter
20 g cornflour (cornstarch), sieved

Special equipment: fine sieve, stand or hand-held mixer, plastic wrap, rolling pin, baking paper, 5.5 cm round cookie cutters (or cookie cutters of your choice), baking sheet(s)


Preparation
In the bowl of your stand mixer (or in a large bowl), add the butter and icing sugar and beat, using the paddle attachment (or with your hand-held mixer), on medium-high speed for about 8 minutes or until you have a very creamy and light mixture. Add the vanilla and beat to incorporate. Add the flour and cornflour and beat on low speed. At first you may think that the mixture will not become a dough because it will look very sandy but don't worry, after a minute it will come together (like in the picture below) and gather in pieces around the paddle attachment (or around the beaters) of your mixer.


Remove the dough from the bowl and shape it into a ball and then into a disk. At this point you'll see the actual texture of the dough which should be smooth and firm. Wrap it with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator for 45 minutes.

Line your baking sheet with baking paper.
Preheat your oven to 180 degrees Celsius / 350 Fahrenheit.

Place the chilled disk of dough between two sheets of baking paper and with the help of a rolling pin, roll it out to 0.5-0.7 cm-thickness.
In a small bowl, add some flour and use it to dip in your cookie cutter. In this way, the cookie cutter won't stick to the dough.
Remove the top baking paper from your rolled-out dough and using your cookie cutter, cut out round shapes and place them on your prepared baking sheet, spacing them 1.5 cm apart.

Note: It's best if you transfer the cut-out cookies from the baking paper to your baking sheet using a small offset spatula. This way you ensure the shape of the cookie remains intact. You need to work fast because the dough becomes warmer and softer as time passes.


Place the baking sheet on the middle rack of your preheated oven and bake the cookies for 11-12 minutes or until light golden around the edges. They'll feel a little soft in the middle but that's okay. Be careful not to overbake them.
Note: if you choose a different cookie cutter, either smaller or bigger, or even of a different shape than the one indicated, the baking times will change. For example, I baked the small cookie letters for 6 minutes. Keep a close eye on your cookies while baking so you avoid any surprises.

Remove the baking sheet from the oven and allow the cookies to stand for 2 minutes. Then transfer them to a wire rack to cool.

Allow them to cool completely before you transfer them to a cookie tin.
They'll keep for 1 week, at room temperature, in a tightly closed cookie tin.











Chocolate Shortbread Cookies

The addition of sea salt elevates the cocoa flavor. You can coat them with granulated sugar before baking, in order to make them a little sweeter and to add another texture to them.






Yield: about 20 cookies

Ingredients
115 g unsalted butter, at room temperature
40 g icing sugar, sieved
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
125 g all purpose flour, sieved plus extra for dipping your cookie cutter
25 g Dutch-processed cocoa powder, sieved
⅛ tsp sea salt

Special equipment: fine sieve, stand or hand-held mixer, plastic wrap, rolling pin, baking paper, 5.5 cm round cookie cutters (or cookie cutters of your choice), baking sheet(s)


Preparation
In the bowl of your stand mixer (or in a large bowl), add the butter and icing sugar and beat, using the paddle attachment (or with your hand-held mixer), on medium-high speed for about 8 minutes or until you have a creamy and light mixture. Add the vanilla and beat to incorporate. Add the flour, cocoa powder and sea salt and beat on low speed until you have a rough, soft dough. It will be ever-so-slightly sticky.


Remove the dough from the bowl and shape it into a ball and then into a disk. Wrap it with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator for 1 hour to firm up.

Line your baking sheet with baking paper.
Preheat your oven to 180 degrees Celsius / 350 Fahrenheit.

Place the chilled disk of dough between two sheets of baking paper and with the help of a rolling pin, roll it out to 0.5-0.7 cm-thickness.
In a small bowl, add some flour and use it to dip in your cookie cutter. In this way, the cookie cutter won't stick to the dough.
Remove the top baking paper from your rolled-out dough and using your cookie cutter, cut out round shapes and place them on your prepared baking sheet, spacing them 1.5 cm apart.

Note: Because the dough has the tendency to be sticky, it's best if you transfer the cut-out cookies from the baking paper to your baking sheet using a small offset spatula. This way you ensure the shape of the cookie remains intact. You need to work fast because the dough becomes warmer and softer as time passes.


Place the baking sheet on the middle rack of your preheated oven and bake the cookies for 9-10 minutes. They'll feel a little soft in the middle but that's okay. Be careful not to overbake them.
Note: if you choose a different cookie cutter, either smaller or bigger, or even of a different shape than the one indicated, the baking times will change. For example, I baked the small cookie letters for 6 minutes. Keep a close eye on your cookies while baking so you avoid any surprises.

Remove the baking sheet from the oven and allow the cookies to stand for 2 minutes. Then transfer them to a wire rack to cool.

Allow them to cool completely before you transfer them to a cookie tin.
They'll keep for 1 week, at room temperature, in a tightly closed cookie tin.








Sabtu, 24 November 2012

The girl who shoots food

Ninety-nine per cent of the time, I take food photographs on my window sill.






I draw up the curtains and shoot right in front of the kitchen window so that I can have plenty of natural light. This is Holland after all where there's not a lot of sunlight, especially during late autumn and winter, so I need to get as close to the source as I can.






I've become a constant light chaser, always having to schedule the day and time of shooting depending on the weather report. Of course, the fact that I only have a five-year old point-and-shoot camera and not some fancy DSLR with all the trimmings, isn't making it easier on me. I love a challenge however, so I choose to view it as such and try to do the best with what I've got.






Having to take pictures in front of my large kitchen window also means that I get to meet my neighbors, who always seem to stare at me wondering what the heck I'm photographing all the time. Then of course they catch a glimpse of me licking my fingers or a spoon, moving around in the kitchen, back and forth, pan in one hand, camera in the other and they get the picture. Around the neighborhood, I'm known as the girl who shoots food. Sometimes I feel like asking them to join me, come eat with us, but I'm too shy to do that.






I'm not too shy to invite all of you to cook this dish and share it with your guests though. Penne with mascarpone and walnuts. A wonderfully simple dish yet oh so flavorful.






Penne is one of my favorite types of pasta and the mascarpone, well, that is a brilliant Italian invention which may conjure up images of tiramisù rather than pasta, but let me assure you, the pairing is fabulous. The penne, cooked al dente of course, along with the silky smooth and slightly sweet mascarpone sauce, a handful of crunchy walnuts and a sprinkling of salty parmesan, make up a glorious dish, perfect for a chilly winter's evening.











Penne with Mascarpone, Walnuts and Parmesan
Adapted, ever-so-slightly, from At Elizabeth David's Table

The sauce is rather filling so don't go overboard. Small portions served with a fresh green salad and a glass of white wine will make an ideal dinner for four.






Yield: 4 main-course servings

Ingredients
450-500 g dried small penne rigate
2 heaped Tbsp unsalted butter
250 g mascarpone cheese
3-4 Tbsp grated parmesan, plus more for serving
80 g (3/4 cup) walnuts, chopped roughly
Freshly ground white pepper
Salt

Special equipment: colander, cheese grater


Preparation
Bring a large pot of water to the boil over high heat and add a good sprinkling of salt, followed by the penne. Cook until al dente (firm but not very hard), or cook to your liking, stirring every so often so the penne don't stick together.

Five to ten minutes before the penne are cooked, prepare the sauce.
In a large and deep skillet, add the butter and melt over medium-high heat. Then add the mascarpone and turn heat down to low. Stir the mascarpone until it melts and combines with the butter into a creamy sauce. Be careful not to boil the mascarpone, you just need to heat it well through.

Once the penne are cooked, drain them in a colander and immediately add them to the mascarpone sauce. Stir them around and add the parmesan and some freshly ground white pepper. Have a taste to check if the dish needs any salt. The parmesan is very salty so I'll doubt it'll need any. Stir well and serve immediately in individual plates or in a large serving bowl.

Add some chopped walnuts on top of each serving and make sure to keep the parmesan at the table for anyone who needs to add an extra grating on top.